To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted. – Bill Bryson
Wednesday, March 7, 2012 (DAY 3)
My first night back in a hostel after many years and I’m beginning to wonder how I’m going to handle these sleepless nights, especially with music blaring in to the early morning hours. It is 8:30am and the sun is shining through the window above me as I am still lying comfortably in bed, looking across from me is Valentina and without words we decide it is time to begin the day. Within a few minutes we are out the door walking towards Front Street in search of breakfast and the possibility of snorkeling, despite the clouds gathering overhead ready to let out another torrential rain. Our first stop is Raggamuffin Tours, no luck in securing a reservation as they have an extensive backlog to complete before accepting new customers due to the previous days’ weather and the inability to engage the high swells. We continue to stroll down the street with little sense of urgency while peering out over the white caps of the waters that are typically calm and blue, the disappointment is obvious in Valentina’s eyes as she contemplates her options of whether to stay another day in hopes of more formidable weather or begin the planning preparations to leave the island discouraged. Talking over her options as we continue walking north, we find ourselves in front of Costa Maya Adventures where we luckily snag the last two available spots for the full day excursion, granted the weather cooperates. A bit pricey, $180 BZD ($90 USD) for the equipment rental, park fees, lunch, and four separate locations, including the notorious Shark Ray Alley. Since diving the Blue Hole is out of budget, I am easily persuaded, giving in to Valentina even though she is determined to do this with or without me.
My first night back in a hostel after many years and I’m beginning to wonder how I’m going to handle these sleepless nights, especially with music blaring in to the early morning hours. It is 8:30am and the sun is shining through the window above me as I am still lying comfortably in bed, looking across from me is Valentina and without words we decide it is time to begin the day. Within a few minutes we are out the door walking towards Front Street in search of breakfast and the possibility of snorkeling, despite the clouds gathering overhead ready to let out another torrential rain. Our first stop is Raggamuffin Tours, no luck in securing a reservation as they have an extensive backlog to complete before accepting new customers due to the previous days’ weather and the inability to engage the high swells. We continue to stroll down the street with little sense of urgency while peering out over the white caps of the waters that are typically calm and blue, the disappointment is obvious in Valentina’s eyes as she contemplates her options of whether to stay another day in hopes of more formidable weather or begin the planning preparations to leave the island discouraged. Talking over her options as we continue walking north, we find ourselves in front of Costa Maya Adventures where we luckily snag the last two available spots for the full day excursion, granted the weather cooperates. A bit pricey, $180 BZD ($90 USD) for the equipment rental, park fees, lunch, and four separate locations, including the notorious Shark Ray Alley. Since diving the Blue Hole is out of budget, I am easily persuaded, giving in to Valentina even though she is determined to do this with or without me.
The next order of the morning is breakfast. Café Paradiso, a tiny operation that is conducted out of a small wooden shack complete with outdoor seating and a gorgeous beachfront view. We pull two stools up to the small bar, which is more of an overhang that rests on the inside of the waist-high white picket fence separating us from Front Street, shortly after placing our order the rain begins. Moving toward the back of the small outdoor seating area is a store that has a covered patio. We take shelter from the wind and rain with a small group of other patrons and continue to stare out at the sea, wondering if we have made the wrong decision. Our light breakfast of bagels and coffee is eaten with little optimism before heading back to the hostel to grab a few things as the rain continues.
Forty-five minutes later, the weather dissipates just enough for our small sea-worthy vessel to break free from the wooden dock and we are on our way to open waters. Conversation is practically impossible over the sound of the engine, but that doesn’t seem to bother any of us, the view in every direction is more breathtaking than any words can be spoken at that moment and I am glad to take it in as the warm ocean breeze presses firmly upon my skin. Half an hour later, we reach our first location, as the boat drifts towards the area to anchor our first experience is a large sea turtle breaching the water with its entire head for a breathe of air. Magnicifant. Immediately, the enthusiasm and excitement to get into the water is a race among the eleven of us. Below the crystal blue waters, there is four or five more enormous sea turtles. Majestic and beautiful in the wild, they appear to be flying beneath the surface. The parade of marine life continues with stingrays and various fish, each being so clearly visible as if standing and looking at them from outside glass windows. I amazed that I can see to the bottom of the ocean floor while above me there is no land in sight. Swimming in no congruent formation, I am suddenly caught off guard as a dark shadow approaches from behind me in my blind spot–passing on my right side causing a brief moment of panic and fear, I freeze–slowly, I turn my head to see what the object is, and as I do, the shape of the image becomes more clear, it is the largest sea turtle of the day, all within an arm’s reach of my body. I so badly want to touch this gentle giant, but we were warned to refrain from this since over time they can become susceptible to the presence of humans and as boats approach can often be struck as they anticipate the attention. After lunch we begin motoring to our third location and as we pull up a group of Norse Sharks practically run into the side of the boat. I can now proudly say that swimming with sharks can be checked off my bucket list. Without a doubt, this is the experience I was hoping for and will now carry this with me for the rest of my life.
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