THE TRAVEL BLOG OF TROY HENDERSHOTT, GLOBAL BACKPACKER FOR ALMOST 3-YEARS CONTINUOUS, SINCE 2012

10 TRAVEL TIPS BEFORE VISITING SOUTH KOREA

3/20/2016

Almost every successful person begins with two beliefs: the future can be better than the present, and I have the power to make it so. – Anonymous

Monday, March 20, 2016 (DAY 1,475)
As the peak season of travel for South Korea and much of the world approaches in the Spring and Summer months, I wanted to share several pieces of advice for those seeking to visit the country of my birth, South Korea! I know that several of the apps listed below are not specific only to South Korea or travel, but these can be utilized with specific tips that many first-time and even seasoned international travelers often forget, so think of this as maybe a friendly reminder or refresher before traveling abroad.

I will explain as to why these can not only be necessary, but how they can be used effectively, especially in regards to Korean Adoptees #KADS that might be coming to Korea for the first time. Also, you would be surprised at how many people will delete important apps from their devices to make more storage space for photos and later realize that was a huge mistake! As a budget traveler I've learned that in order to gain more free cloud storage is to have multiple Gmail accounts, Drop Boxes, backup photos to social media, etc foregoing the need to pay for more cloud storage.

Let's begin, shall we...

KAKAO TALK: This is the MOST important app for South Korea because people do not use traditional text messaging through their mobile/cell phone service providers. Everyone from young people to the elderly use Kakao just as other countries may use WhatsApp, Line, WeChat, etc. in Korea Kakao is KING! This also uses far less bandwidth than FB Messenger so you can actually keep text messaging conversations going while riding the subway unlike FB Messenger or Skype. You are able to still do all the normal functions such as send photos and videos, make both voice and video calls on to other users, and more. The reason you MUST download this prior to arriving in Korea is because you will need the SMS verification code to activate your Kakao account. Yes, for tech savvy individuals such as myself I can get around this small quark, but too many others arrive short or long-term and realize why they aren't getting invited to things, because EVERYONE uses Kakao. On a side note I've learned to download ALL types of communication apps because you never know when you'll meet a new friend from China, Australia, South America, etc and I want to keep in touch with others around the world when I can. You can also download this app to your PC or Mac!

This is another app that EVERYONE in Korea uses, whether they have grown up in Seoul their entire life or not. I use this daily and love the fact that it can be used both online and offline. Besides being available in both English and Korean, most subway stations will provide you with both the English subway station and the Korean name without the need to change the language settings. One example is that for Hongik University Station it is pronounced and referred to as Hongdae (홍대) which I know confuses many people, including myself when I first arrived because I wanted to ensure that I was arriving at the correct station.
The other reason this app is so important is because the subway in Seoul, like many other cities throughout Asia, it does not operate 24/7 and on weekends the subway actually reduces the normal commuting routes and therefore on Fridays or Saturdays people are often always concerned about when LAST TRAIN is and this app will provide not only that information, but it also will provide you accurate information of the depart and arrival times as well as how many transfer stations and/or fastest route and many other features that can save you time and make your visit to Seoul a much more pleasant experience.

Yes, there are NUMEROUS free apps that allow for VOIP (Voice of IP) and for international readers you will need to find an app that may allow you to have a constant local phone number from your home country to use while abroad. I have numerous ones that allow me to have several U.S. dedicated numbers for texting and calling. This is valuable because if you ever download something or need to make a call back to your home country to a landline for example you can do so by taking just a little bit of time to research which free or paid VOIP app may best meet your needs.

While living in Korea on and off, where all of my clients insist we use English to communicate (no surprise lol) I've found that learning Korean takes time of course and by comparing other translation apps such as Google translate to this Naver app, Koreans agree that this is much more accurate than Google Translator, however, I know that this app may not be the most easy to navigate for the technologically inept, but if you take the time to download this app and try it out, this can be an enormous difference in asking directions or ordering beef instead of steamed larvae!

Yes, sadly much of the world has become so heavily reliant on smartphone or mobile app devices that many people couldn't even tell me the direction of North from South! I will admit that while these are extremely valuable apps, becoming completely reliant on them is concerning and I fear for future generations that if they can't access maps from around the corner from their home they may never be able to make their way back without the self-guided voice of Siri! Besides my own reasons for basic Geography lessons, people must realize that other countries Google Maps or other online map services are not 100% accurate of course, and they are by far less accurate when comparing Google Maps in the United States to using Google Maps in Seoul. First of all, much of the map will be in Korean so if you can't read Korean good luck my friend! Secondly, again there's a reason why companies like Kakao and Naver are dominant in Korea and why other Western companies still scratch their heads as to why (READ HERE). Therefore, I'm sure most people already have some navigation or map app downloaded to their smart phones, but just realize that by relying on these completely may get you more lost than before. So, I implore you ALL, for the sake of future generations, please oh please, learn to read a normal map and learn to navigate based upon memory on not just reliant on technology!

Whether you are a world traveler or not. Someone that understands currencies well or not. I still find any free currency exchange app to be helpful not only for accurate rates but also to see how that currency has been producing or losing value.

I know it's been a while since I've been back to the States, but I believe you need to download Skype through a verification system and therefore again leave this app on your smart phone or mobile device, since most people know how to use Skype.

Using any type of free cloud storage or a way to share large files is necessary to have while traveling abroad. You want to make sure you have accessible backup color images of things such as your passport and any other important documents. I would suggest for those that are more tech savvy to create encrypted files to store sensitive materials. When it comes to Korean Adoptees #KADS if you come to Korea you will need certain documents to obtain your F4 Visa, such as your naturalization paper, birth certificate, and others. I know if Donald Trump becomes president, as a minority I may need to PROVE that I am an American citizen, that or just forego living in the U.S. for the next four-years, which I'd be glad to continue doing. Besides the hair piece of ignorance, make sure YOU DO YOUR RESEARCH before traveling abroad! I don't care if you've been to Korea before or not! Laws and regulations change, and while you might have been here a few months ago, if you come unprepared and try reaching out as a KAD to any of the organizations searching for birth families or trying to obtain your F4 Visa without the proper documents, because YOU FAILED to do the research and later verbally abuse someone, you may certainly get a five-fingers to the face (SLAP) because there is no one to blame but yourself. So, please realize that whatever you do for traveling abroad, especially for KADS returning to Korea that you represent not just yourself, your home country, but the KAD community in general so please be aware of that fact and if you have questions, please reach out to GOAL, myself (Email Here) when I can respond, and please take a moment to read ADVICE FOR KADS COMING TO KOREA!

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MUGUNGHWA HOUSE REVIEW 무궁화집

10/28/2013

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Our lives begin to end the day we decide to become silent about things that matter. — Martin Luther King, Jr.

Monday, October 28, 2013 (DAY 602)
Mugunghwa House was founded on October 18, 2012 and is a guesthouse dedicated for grown-up international adoptees and is operated by Eastern Social Welfare Services. Mugunghwa (무궁화집), is translated as ‘Rose of Sharon,’ which is Korea’s national flower as well. The property sits on the corner of a quiet street and is surrouned by a tall security wall with an intercom system for guests as the arrive. The house is several homes down from the bustling street and has 6 relatively spacious bedrooms (remember I’m used to more proper dorm living as well as very small Korean apartments with the CouchSurfing I’ve been doing), and allows for about 15 guests at a time. There is also a living room that flows into the dining area and wraps around to the kitchen, several bathrooms are situated throughout the property, there is even a small laundry area with a washing machine with free laundry detergent available for guests that is just outside the back door from the kitchen, from this small space there is a series of stairs that lead to what appears to be either more bedrooms or even a small basement apartment. At the time I was given the tour it appeared to be occupied by two long-term guests that I received very brief introductions with. Overall the property feels very much like a your mom’s house, and it seems to be a very peaceful environment for adoptees as we learn more about our roots and have a chance to experience Korean culture.

As you enter the house, there is a small entrance where you are required to take off your shoes–typical Asian custom. Directly to the right of the foyer is an office that Crystal and another volunteer are working out of and is across from the living room. Since the bedrooms are divided by gender, I am in a 4-bed dorm with bunkbeds upstairs that also has a large full ensuite bathroom with a shower and a small oval garden tub. The room is spacious and each bed is accompanied with a tall closet or chest that has a keyed lock for you to store your belongings securely. The cabinet is quite spacious as I’m able to fit my entire 65 liter backpack plus two smaller backpacks as well as hang up a few shirts and my jacket. On the bottom inside of the dark cherry cabinets is two deep drawers, one on top of another, where there is plenty of space for a stack of folded clothes, especially since it appears most adoptees only occupy the house for the standard 7-day period anyways. Air conditioning units and a standing fan are also found in our room, and I am assuming this is common for each room, however since each door is shut I haven’t felt the urge to go snooping….yet. Hey you never know when you might find that magical door to Narnia or something.

In spite of the constant turnover of guests and even a few long term resident adoptees, the house is very clean and well kept. The kitchen is very organized and there are both plenty of dishes and workable cooking preparation surfaces. A large refrigerator and gas range accompany everything that should meet any Western-style standard for kitchen use. There is also a coffeemaker and free cold purified water from a filtration system that sits next to the refrigerator. The Wi-Fi, as expected in South Korea is up to the normal fast speeds, and can be connected to throughout the entire property (indoors or outside on the small patio or garden area).

MY RTW PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
My last night CouchSurfing with Ray was my sixth night (almost double the amount of time most hosts are willing to accept a surfer) and we’ve decided to have dinner at an all-you-can-eat Korean BBQ restaurant. Even before we have left the apartment I’ve already decided that I’m going to pay for his dinner since he was such an exceptional host, plus he paid for our share of the taxi and waking up to the surprise of a McDonald’s delivered breakfast. This has nothing to say about my other hosts’ I’ve had in Seoul, because every one of them have been exceptional, Adam, Austin, and Scott, it’s just that I suppose because Ray’s schedule was more flexible that we had a chance to go out a bit more around the city. The food was amazing and we ate to our stomach’s content. He did mention that even though it’s all-you-can eat for only ₩10,100 ($9.52 each), that if your eyes end up being larger than your stomach at the end of the meal and there is a plate of uncooked or even cooked meat, they will charge your wastefulness, which I said was fair, but also wondered how many Americans found this out the hard way and failed miserably by arguing the fact. After dinner we took the subway back to the Sillim station and walked around the area since it wasn’t too cold out, we ended up sitting by the recently engineered river discussing a variety of topics. Apparently a former mayor of the city convinced tax payers that several publics works projects such as constructing sidewalks for running and biking trails that run the length of the river as well as a variety of others will benefit the entire public and bring Seoul upwards to being a major international city for tourism. This was our last conversation of the evening as we made the short walk up the street to his apartment–stating that within the next 15-years or less Seoul is on pace to be just as sophisticated and desirable as other sought after destinations such as Tokyo, Paris, and New York.

Monday morning, I am awake just after Ray has left to teach and mold young Korean minds and looking at the clock on the wall it is just after 7:45am. Today I will be packing up and moving to my fourth location to call home in Seoul since arriving 13-days ago, however today’s move is the reason that brought me to South Korea and a flood of emotions is beginning to rise. Feeling as though I shouldn’t meet my birth mother tomorrow looking like Grizzly Adams, I pull out the cordless hair trimmers I purchased a few months ago in Thailand and give myself my typical hair style cut, buzzing it down, again some things backpackers do, not out of style but out of convenience or utility. While, this isn’t the true hairstyle choice for most backpackers, I’ve found that it works better than the normal– growing long shaggy hair. I also finally shave and now that I’m two-hours ahead from Southeast Asia I’m finally able to Skype with my parents before heading out, since it’s around 7pm yesterday in Denver. After talking with them for about 90-minutes, since our last conversation was almost 2-months ago in Thailand because our schedules and the frustrating time difference was a constant battle, I am packed up and ready to head out just after 11:30am. Using the excellent free subway app titled Jihachul, I’ve calculated that from the Sillim station to Hongik University station it will take around 20-minutes plus the additional time to walk, wait on trains, and transfer via 2 local buses, so I’ve guestimated 45-minutes. About an hour later and I’ve made it to the coffee shop that’s directly across the street and a half a block from Mugunghwa House. Since I was told that check-in was after 1pm I’ve ordered a coffee and spent a bit of time proof-reading and editing my most recent blogs. Yes, I have to admit that most of the time whether I’m in a hurry or I just don’t take the time to go back and read what I’ve written there tend to be numerous grammatical mistakes. Plus, I also tend to start writing my blogs in Word docs and will often write a paragraph or start a thought and just reopen my computer days later and pick back up so there seems to be some continuity confession and I apologize for that. BUT, I’d like to see how well other people manage doing all of this traveling, moving around, and blogging. Oh, wait they’re called travel bloggers and they actually get paid to do this. Yeah….I’d like to one day be there myself but I suppose for now just sharing what I’ve experienced and learned and passing that along with my personal journey on the road will suffice for now. Since tomorrow is a big day and I’ve still got a lot of feelings buzzing around inside me, I think I’m going to take a short walk around the neighborhood and get to bed early so I’m well rested for whatever tomorrow may bring with meeting my birth mother for the first time.

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TRAVEL BLOG RESTRUCTURING

10/21/2013

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In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life.. it goes on. – Robert Frost

Sunday, October 20, 2013 (DAY 594)
Today, I’ve made the executive decision to restructure the layout of how my blogs will be formatted slightly–I will still continue to write about my personal experiences as I have been doing so for both the months leading up to leaving on this great journey and adventure, as well as all that has happened over the past 19 months and counting– the only difference will be that I will try and be more didactic in the proactive way in which I provide information that I’ve gained in order to provide a better insight in to what both extended budget travel and backpacking in general is like, since it is more of a lifestyle than just a hobby or activity. The topics will pertain to more recent subjects, such as; current prices, accommodations, volunteering, social issues, transportation, visas, border-crossings, etc. For example, how the perception of this bohemian lifestyle is often viewed as romantic and gorgeous in the photographs on Facebook, in reality much of our–backpackers–time is spent on random forms of transportation, catching up on sleep in the most awkward of places, and finding the discipline to manage our time to balance everything from meeting new people, enjoying the present moments, as well as juggling the constant communication overload of trying to stay in touch with both family and friends back home, as well as all of the new friends you make along the way. The various competing team zones and almost never knowing what day it is never helps either. There is a a decent documentary, A Map for Saturday, that portrays a bit of the reality of backpacking and has a parallel connection with me since the story revolves around, Brook Silva-Braga, a television producer that left his cushy job with HBO in New York City to travel around the world for about a year. Even though the documentary is almost 10-years old (from 2005) there are still some very valid points that are made in the film, such as getting used to sleeping in dorms, shared bathrooms, the fact that men lose weight and women gain it, and how pasta becomes as prominent a part in your diet as water. I also loved the beginning of the film as he recorded the reactions from coworkers, because I felt that it was very similar to me–both the reactions and the questions, oh good ole, HDNet.

So in my new–let’s call it revised format–I will be writing the opening sections (beginning with the next blog) with more general travel tips and information, while I will save the personal experiences for the latter part of the blogging. So for those of you that find reading a chore, feel free to begin skipping over the travel information sections and scroll down to the personal stories. Since I also have many tech friends, c’mon let’s just call it what is is, tech geeks, awe we’re nerds. I know that many of you may have be wondering why I have not shifted my Webbly website to WordPress already and believe me, I have wrestled with this notion multiple times. However, I have yet to find a relatively easy way including the minimal costs and setup, but more than anything the time to export ALL of the collected materials I’ve been posting since 2011, primarily all of the photos that are attached to each blog. I was one of the unfortunate bloggers that had the choice between Weebly and WordPress almost three years ago, and as the knight from Indiana Jones would say, "I have chosen….poorly." But at the time who knew, which platform would develop and be the better choice. Plus, I mean it’s a miracle I have been able to catch up on over 10-months without blogging. I can only imagine how much time I would need to dedicate to exporting and having the site fully functional, but when I do find the time, doubt not, I will be shifting to WordPress. So for now sorry everyone, if you do know of a very simplistic way, mainly one that doesn’t take a lot of time or multiple programs to download please email me. Cheers everyone.

Sunday funday begins with the sole intention of getting lost in Seoul–pun intended–a slightly anticipated subway ride seven stops away on the #2 Green Line lays the infamous Gangnam area. Only, if you’ve been living under a rock or fortunate enough not to have the gift of hearing have you been unaware of Psy’s international hit, Gangnam Style. Thankfully the song that has plagued the planet and was the first Youtube video to reach over 1 billion views, is ironically absent in both the city and the country that it is made famous for, or at least I have yet to hear it because I am told his new song has become the new overplayed tune. After walking around the area, which really is not nearly as impressive and is rather small thanks to the information from Scott, one of the guys I’m CouchSurfing with, I decide to hop back on the subway since I was also given a free T-money transit card from Austin his roommate, which had about $10 worth of use on it. Score! The T-money is a transportation card that is exactly what it sounds like. It is the size of a credit card and can be used to pay for transportation fares for the subway, public buses, even taxis all by swiping across the different reader-machines. One of the best free Seoul navigation apps that you can download as well is called Jihachul. This app is available on both iOS and Android, here I've hyperlinked it to the iTunes Apple Store since I am traveling with an iPhone, so you can get preview of what it looks like. Well being made highly aware that Itaewon is also known as little America, is primarily one street that caters to tourists and is lined with various street vendors. The reason this area is known for foreigners is because of the US Army Garrison Yongsan, which is the headquarters for the US Military presence in South Korea. Don't worry, this information is quite public so I'm not pulling an Edward Snowden and divulging national secrets. As I walk out of the subway station and I find myself hurled over with laughter. The night before my friend Steve posted a link to my Facebook and gave me the mission, should I dare accept it, to find out if Seoul had launched a ‘Gangnam style’ tourist police force, which the photo is proof enough. Walking around and grabbing lunch I can’t help but remember The Simpson’s episode where while they are in Japan, they go to eat in Americatown where each table is shaped like a different state and as the waiter arrives he greets them with a humorous American accent, "Howdy, gangstas! I'm average American Joe Salaryman waiter." After a few questions regarding the menu again the waiter replies, “Don't ask me; I don't know anything! I'm product of American education system. I also build poor-quality cars and inferior-style electronics." And the response by Homer as he is chuckling is priceless, "Oh, they got our number!"

Once I’ve had my feel for Itaewon’s Americatown, I decide to start the 30-minute walk to the Korean War Museum, which was opened in 1994, and has over 13,000 various war memorabilia and military equipment. Walking down the sidewalk as traffic bustles by, there are large shade trees that line the sidewalks on both sides of the road and each towering tree has enormously large leaves that are beginning to change color and fall off, which in turn automatically reminds me of autumn in Colorado and the changing of the seasons there. The walk is peaceful and a feeling of solace overcomes me as I realize my destination is growing closer. When I first arrive I am amazed at the size of the monuments, the actual military vehicles around the outside of the exhibit hall, and the building itself. One of my favorite photos is of a group of children running up and down the steps as the words ‘We never forget the war heroes who sacrificed for the peace and freedom.’ I could think of nothing more that can capture this statement in a photograph regarding peace and respect. Upon entering the building, I notice there is a free English tour, even though there is no admission cost for those that choose to do some self-guided exploring. I approach by a young looking kid with a badge swinging from a lanyard and inquire about when the next tour begins. He tells me that he can actually give me a personal tour and introduces himself as Sam, which I assume is an alias to make it simpler for people. We begin by entering the first of several different rooms, each one explains the different stages that lead up to Korean War. I cannot help but feel more in touch as this is a part of my culture–who I am. We’ve both agreed to the short tour since the museum closes at 6pm and I wanted to take advantage of the lower level which is a full history of Korea as a country. Unfortunately, I have to move quickly from each of the plaques, but again it still continues to give me more of a sense of identity, but at the same time, I know that I am more American and relate more to that side of who I am than anything. It is a very uncanny feeling that I am unsure I can explain. Before I know an hour has almost passed and I still have yet to view the outside grounds where many of the actual full-size military vehicles and planes are permanent fixtures. Losing daylight, I walk through the designated areas and head back to the Itaewon subway station.

Returning back to Austin and Scott’s apartment, I am feeling a bit under the weather with what appears to be a slight temperature and sore throat. This has also caused a variation in an unstable sleeping pattern as I toss and turn most of the night. Unfortunately due to this, the next morning I’ve missed the emails about meeting up with friends from back home, Calvin and Bryan, who were passing through Seoul on a nine-hour layover. Since niether of us had cell phones, all of our communication was limited to emails that when we were in areas with Wi-Fi. At one point we thought we had a formabable plan to meet near the Bongcheon station at a Ediya coffee shop, but after waiting for them for about an hour and watching the time closely as I knew they had to be back to Icheon International Airport by 3pm, Calvin emails me that they had got caught in traffic and apologized but was concerned that they would miss their flight. I also apologized for missing their emails earlier in the morning, drowsy cold medicine can be the worst, or the best. I realized that sometimes these are just how things roll when traveling and in life. You make plans to meet up and try your best, but often there are unforeseen circumstances that occur, and you can either get mad about a situation you can’t control or choose to realize in hope that it will just be another time. I like to choose the latter. I mean when you are navigating through Seoul, which is considered a megacity with a population that exceeds 10 million inhabitants, the roadways even on a Monday afternoon can still be found at a stand still. Through an exchange of emails I tell them that I completely understand that they were worried about missing their flight back to Denver, but to give my best to everyone back in Colorado and now that I've loitered around the coffee shop long enough and after receiving confirmation that our plans to meet up were not going to happen I make a direct bee line to the pharmacy and head back to Austin and Scott’s apartment to rest up before this illness becomes a monster and took it easy the rest of the afternoon lying on the couch attempting to nap while watching a few movies.

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10 TRAVEL TIPS BEFORE VISITING SOUTH KOREA

Almost every successful person begins with two beliefs: the future can be better than the present, and I have the power to make it so. – Anonymous

MUGUNGHWA HOUSE REVIEW 무궁화집

Our lives begin to end the day we decide to become silent about things that matter. — Martin Luther King, Jr.

TRAVEL BLOG RESTRUCTURING

In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life.. it goes on. – Robert Frost

About the Author

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All content is
© 2011-2017 of rtwexperiences.com All rights reserved unless otherwise noted.

10 TRAVEL TIPS BEFORE VISITING SOUTH KOREA

Almost every successful person begins with two beliefs: the future can be better than the present, and I have the power to make it so. – Anonymous

MUGUNGHWA HOUSE REVIEW 무궁화집

Our lives begin to end the day we decide to become silent about things that matter. — Martin Luther King, Jr.

TRAVEL BLOG RESTRUCTURING

In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life.. it goes on. – Robert Frost

About the Author

Archives

Categories

All content is © 2011-2017 of rtwexperiences.com All rights reserved unless otherwise noted.

All content is
© 2011-2017 of rtwexperiences.com All rights reserved unless otherwise noted.