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BACKPACKING SOUTHEAST ASIA VS CENTRAL AMERICA

2/14/2014

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Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime. – Mark Twain

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 (DAYS 709 – 714)
Having the opportunity to spending more than a year in Central America (#CA) and more than seven months in Southeast Asia (#SEA), I wanted to do a simple breakdown of the differences of the two based upon my experiences. I hope this will help other budget travelers and backpackers that may have curiosity between the two and what they can expect. Beginning my travels in Central America, I had the privilege of spending time in every country, which for those that may be geographically impaired these countries include: #Belize, #Guatemala, #Honduras, #ElSalvador, #Nicaragua, #CostaRica, and #Panama, as far as Southeast Asia, I have spent time in; #Thailand, #Malaysia, #Indonesia, #Singapore, #Laos, #Cambodia, and #Vietnam. Let’s get started, yo.

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Border crossing in El Salvador
TOURIST VISAS
SEA: Due to restrictions, it more difficult to spend longer periods of time in each country unless you are willing to pay for extensions. The average tourist visa is 30 days and the average cost for visas on arrival (with the exception of Thailand and Singapore) is between $25-$60. This also makes doing visas runs to re-enter on a new tourist visa more expensive and must be adjusted for your travel budget.

CA: Based upon most nationalities and most every country, with the exception of El Salvador that still continues to follow the C-4 Agreement and Belize (30-day tourist visa), you are given a 90-day tourist visa in each country, and since there are no visas to obtain the minimal costs are either entry or exit fees for each country. Belize has the highest exit fee $40 (as of recently, I think I paid $15 in 2012) and Nicaragua has the highest entrance fee at $14.

ADVANTAGE: CENTRAL AMERICA (#CA)

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Naked Tiger hostel San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
ACCOMMODATION
CA: The average hostel dorm will be between $5-$10 and private rooms can range, but typically peak at $10-$20.

SEA: There is still a reason it is the backpacker’s mecca for budget travel. Dorms can be as cheap as $1 and privates can be obtained for as cheap as $5 on average.

I will note that I have negotiated a private bungalow for as cheap as $1.87 per night that was situated directly on the Mekong River in Laos and rented an apartment in Guatemala for around the same price.

ADVANTAGE: SOUTH EAST ASIA (#SEA)


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Cao Lầu dish in Hội An, Vietnam
THE FOOD:
There is no debate on this topic when it comes to a variety of cheap local cuisines as SEA touts some of the best dishes in the world. While you can get cheap meals at the mercados in CA, the variety is quite limited. The costs can hover around the same price of $1-$2 for street food, even full meals, but it’s the diversity in all of the variations you can sample in SEA that makes it a fat kid’s dream.

ADVANTAGE: SOUHT EAST ASIA (#SEA)

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COST:
It’s no secret that backpackers have been flocking to SEA for quite some time as it is the mecca for budget travel, however CA is still an unknown region to many backpackers, whether it’s safety concerns or just a lack of information regarding the region. More people I have met will often overlook this narrow region and will jump directly to wanting to travel South America (SA) bypassing an incredible region that is far cheaper than SA overall.

The reason I have given this a tie when it comes to cost is factoring in some of the cheaper accommodations of SEA but also the more expensive border fees/visas, the food costs, activity costs, transportation, etc. I have felt that a very modest budget of $10-$25 a day can be achieved in both regions.

ADVANTAGE: TIE
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Chicken bus in San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala
TRANSPORTATION:
This can be an unfair debate since the overland routes are dramatically difference in amount of time you will spend on buses due to the geographical features.

CA: If you avoid the larger bus companies in CA and opt for the “chicken buses” local transportation this is significantly cheaper, brings more of an experience of immersion, but can be a bit intimidating until you get the hang of it and have.

SEA: The region has a well-defined network of travel agencies that can organize domestic or international travel and will include pick up from your hostel (most of the time) and includes all transfers from your point of origination to your point of destination. The buses are more comfortable and offer more overnight buses, but again the amount of time and distances covered are hard to compare between the two. I think often this equates to how much time you have to travel either region.

ADVANTAGE: TIE (*depending upon how you are traveling, i.e. overall region, number of countries, trip duration, daily budget, etc)

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Border crossing in Honduras
THE BACKPACKERS:
This varies greatly since SEA tends to have younger travelers (teens and early twenties) that are on a gap year or are taking a one-month holiday from Australia or Europe and there is a reason that SEA does have a reputation for an atmosphere of wild partying backpackers and I will have to admit that I saw more young and out of control travelers behaving badly than anyplace else I have been in the world.

I personally felt that the level of maturity was a bit higher for CA because it can also hold a stigma of a more dangerous region and even though I still met young backpackers they weren’t behaving nearly as out of control as I’ve seen just walking around areas of SEA.

ADVANTAGE: CENTRAL AMERICA (#CA)

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Military police in Guatemala
SAFETY:
In both regions there are plenty of stories of petty theft of electronic devices, wallets, etc but I think the difference in how I will gauge this will be from talking with females and looking at the overall cultural differences of how they are treated in public. For example in CA women (locals and foreigners alike) experience more of the “machismo” behavior that can seem very intimidating and aggressive. Generally this is limited to cat calls, but there are more cases that I saw where the men can become, in some ways, confrontational.

SEA has more of the stereotypical Asian cultural understanding of respect, again generally speaking, and women felt much more comfortable in Asia than in Latin America for their personal safety.

I will note that the only petty theft experiences I have had in over 2 years of traveling has unfortunately been in CA. Both instances occurred when the thief or thieves came in to my room (once when I was not there and once while four of us were sleeping in the early morning) and took money. The first was in Honduras where four of us were asleep in our dorm on the third floor and the person(s) responsible were brave enough to enter our room and go through the pockets of clothing on the floor. The second was in Guatemala where I had a locked room on the second floor with no balcony and even though I had my bag locked (since there were no lockers) they cut the inside of my bag with a knife to get to my cash.

ADVANTAGE: SOUTH EAST ASIA (#SEA)

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Da Lat, Vietnam
VARIETY:
CA is such a small region you can travel from the Caribbean to the Pacific in a day, which means you can go from diving to surfing in a matter of hours, and there are plenty of natural beauties to explore in between. Whether that is dense jungle, hiking one of the many volcanoes in the region, or visiting some of the beautiful cities or towns, there is still plenty to see and do, plus because there is a common language for both CA as well as Latin America is makes it easier to communicate with locals.

SEA has a rich history and offers a variety of things to do. You have the same activities with the numerous beaches and islands to soak in the sun, as well as jungles, temples, and mixes of large prosperous cities.

ADVANTAGE: TIE

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Single day admission ticket for Angkor Wat
MY PERSONAL RTW EXPERIENCE:
I first saw the quote used for this blog from my cousin Scott, an avid traveler himself along with his wife Summer, and I am excited that they have the same passion to explore more than a little corner of the globe as well by broadening their outlook on life. I think that the importance in seeing that while we are separated by invisible borders drawn up by those in power, in reality, we are not all that much different from one another–we all breathe the same air and traverse through life with hopes, and dreams, and goals to achieve–it is what makes us human and binds us together. Another great quote that I have taken states, “the best way to serve God is to serve His creation,” and I have to say that my level of compassion continues to grow for others. When you stop and look into the eyes of someone and share a moment, especially those where verbal communication is not possible, that glance you embrace in will share with you more than I feel words could explain. It is a silent exchange of understanding. It is the power of the human spirit that lies within us all. So I implore you to be an individual that is not merely surviving life, but experiencing it. I will tell you that as I continue to live with less (almost with each stop I make before moving on I end up giving things away) and I feel more free knowing that the small amount of material possessions I do own, well, they do not own me, for I have all that I need to live life free. I think after experiencing various forms of poverty in some of the poorest countries in the world I have seen a need for people, travelers or not, that living simply in order for others to simply live is a conscious decision that needs to be evaluated on a personal level. It’s often hard to realize that 16% of the world’s wealthiest nations consumes 80% of the world’s natural resources (according to a 1999 study, and can only imagine how much more unbalanced it is in 2014).

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Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Just after 12:30pm I climb aboard another tuk tuk en route to the bus terminal that is bound for Siem Reap and the highly anticipated UNESCO World Heritage site of Angkor Wat. The hot afternoon sun is shining and I am already beginning to sweat from the dry heat. As with most bus rides, it is an uneventful one where I attempt to get comfortable and catch a nap, but this is a struggle. Shortly after 8:30pm in the darkness and shimmering city streetlights of Siem Reap there are three of us that wander around in search of accommodation for the night. After inquires at several guesthouses and hostels that are without vacancies, we find Angkor Thom’s Guesthouse on Wat Bo Road in the heart of Siem Reap. Tired, dirty, and famished we check in and then head across the road to a local restaurant that has a glorious buffet before crashing out for the night.    
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From experience, I’ve found that the best time to beat most of the tourist buses to sites (Tikal in Guatemala or Machu Picchu in Peru) is at sunrise, and, Angkor Wat is no different. After securing transportation in the form of a hired tuk tuk driver for the entire day for $20 and split between two of us beginning with a 4:45am pick up time we are set to explore the largest religious monument in the world. The driver that I found was a friend of one of the local tuk tuk drivers that I met the day before having lunch at their families’ roadside restaurant where I couldn’t help but see a bit of myself in our young server–a boy of around 10-years-old. At the end of my meal I gave him a $1 tip because I remembered what it was like to be given something such as this as a child and knew that he would receive more enjoyment than I, in spending it. To me, seeing his face light up as he held it up and shared this with his family was well worth it to me, because receiving something without expectation is truly a gift of the heart and in a way I felt selfish in feeling as though I received more from this experience than maybe he did. 
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After an early night, the 4am alarm blaring in my ear was a rude awakening to begin the day long before sunrise. Stumbling around the room for the light switch and immediately sheltering my eyes in the fluorescent flicker as the bulb warmed up to provide the consistent glow, I began to gather my things for the day at the pace of a turtle. Fighting off bouts of long drawn out yawns, I made it down the four-stories to the lobby where even the guesthouse workers were still asleep on mats on the floor. Through the glass doors we could see the driver waiting outside with only a single headlight shining through the darkness. 
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Since the ticket office did not open until 5am, I felt that we had coordinated the timing just right with out driver and arrived at the ticket counter just after they opened. I was surprised to see that even for a single day ticket a digital photo was taken and printed out on the piece of paper that will later be asked for at each and every temple. Once this was obtained we set off down the road, where the brisk morning air was still bringing me to life, and I strained to see out in the darkness the landscapes that were shadows and drew upon my imagination. Once we arrived at the very typical spot of Angkor Wat for the sunrise photo, the crowds seemed minimal to what they would swell to become as daybreak approached. The beauty of the iconic spirals as they reflected in the pond in front of me, well, it is something quite majestic to see as you would imagine. It looked as though there were a set of towers one on top of the other in the clarity of the water, and, for a moment the entire crowd around me vanished and I was standing their in solidarity of the moment, a moment that will live with me for the rest of my life.   
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9 GREAT PLACES TO VISIT IN CENTRAL AMERICA

11/13/2013

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The person that you will spend the most time with in your life is yourself, so you better try and make yourself as interesting as possible. - Author Unknown

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Tuesday, November 12, 2013 (DAYS 617 & 618) 
While there is an extensive list of must-visit locations throughout Central America, through my own personal travel experiences I’ve narrowed down a short list of some of my favorite places I’ve been fortunate enough to have spent time in, which has been anywhere from a few weeks to several months. Several of these places are well known, but hopefully there are a few hidden gems for those that are seeking adventure or incredible destinations that are not on the typical radar for most tourists or travelers.



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CAYE CAULKER, BELIZE – This small limestone coral paradise on the Caribbean Sea is the lesser-known island to the more popular Ambergris Caye and the town of San Pedro. Backpackers, however, tend to choose this smaller island because of the lack of cruise ships dropping in to port and the cheaper prices.

What I loved about Caye Caulker? The limited number of gas-powered vehicles on the island provides a very serene and relaxing environment. Taking daily strolls around the island, if any locals perceived me to be walking at a pace any faster than that of a turtle I was told with a large smile to take it easy mon, through a thick Rasta accent.

Where to check out? Day or night and a short walk anywhere on the island is the social scene known as ‘The Split.’ There is the myth that Hurricane Keith in 1961 separated the island in two, but actually the Village Counsel made the conscious decision to dredge this waterway to allow an easier access for larger and deeper boats, essentially creating an extremely miniature version of the Panama Canal (haha).  

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SEMUC CHAMPEY, GUATEMALA – When I first heard of this amazing spot that everyone that was raving about that was traveling East from Guatemala to Belize, all I could remember was something-champagne. Believe me there is a reason so many travelers have this on the top of their must-list place to visit in Guatemala. Semuc Champey is a natural monument located almost in the dead center of the country, and is only 11km from the small Q'eqchi' Maya town of Lanquin, but don’t be fooled by the distance, as the roads are very rocky and rough. We organized our transportation, which ended up being the back of a crowded pick-up truck with about 30 other locals and took us almost an hour to reach our destination. But, again believe me it is certainly worth it!

What I loved about Semuc Champey? Other than the fact that the stepped, turquoise pools are one of the most inviting natural swimming spots I’ve ever seen, swimming upriver to where these pools are filled you have large cliffs to the right with hanging jungle vines and made me feel like Indiana Jones.  

Where to stay when visiting? While there are day trips that are offered from many locations, I suggest traveling to Lanquin and staying at either Zephyr Lodge, which sits atop the hill and has an amazing view of the valley and river below, or where we stayed, which was El Retiro Lodge. El Retiro is located near the river valley and is a stones throw from the river if you choose to stay in the mixed dorm, which is a circular grass tiki hut and comes with the pleasure of listening to the river as you fall asleep at night.  

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UTILA, HONDURAS – An island that is once again on the Caribbean Sea, Utila is the smaller lesser-known island to the more popular Roatan, and is where you will find all of the international backpackers seeking to do some diving. While there are numerous dive centers to choose from, Parrots Dive Center, is where we chose to obtain our PADI open water certification.

What I loved about Utila? I cannot say enough great things about Parrots Dive Center–everything from the incredibly friendly staff, regularly tested gear, the air-conditioned classroom, included accommodations in the price ($259) for 5-nights, plus we also received two-free fun dives after receiving our certification and a double-bonus end-of-the-week day trip to one of the cayes, or small uninhabited islands, and our instructor threw us a celebratory BBQ along with other staff members. Parrots, certainly feels more like a family than just a dive center!

Where to check out? Treetanic is one of the most incredible art-deco bars or restaurants I’ve ever seen. You have to experience it to really get an idea for it. 

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SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA, GUATEMALA – Located on Lake Atitlán, this is an extremely relaxing spot with the towering, Volcan San Pedro, opposite of the lake. Another great lookout spot to gather a bird’s eye view rests directly across from the town, the Mayan Face or Indian Nose. Aldous Huxley famously wrote: "Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing."

What I loved about San Pedro? Since I traveled here with my friend Kaya at the end of her travels, I was planning to head to Quetzaltenango, also commonly known by its indigenous name Xela (pronounced shay-la) to take Spanish lessons, but after taking strolls through the town and talking with people I was told that it was much cheaper to take lessons in San Pedro and you have the added bonus of a better view. This is where I was able to negotiate private Spanish lessons down to $2.50 an hour and rented an apartment for $1.41 a night.  

Where to check out? Since most of the hostels and backpackers tend to stay closer to the shore, I suggest taking a stroll up the hill and getting lost both wander through the daily local market and the winding steep, often narrow cobblestone streets.  

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EL TUNCO, EL SALVADOR – What can I say? Great surf, black volcanic beaches, and again wonderful locals, which causes me to wonder exactly how bad of a reputation this country has that even many backpackers avoided. Still developing and lacking a horde of tourism, this is why I enjoy backpacking, because often, we are the international group willing to break through and experience places before Hilton or Marriot decides that it’s an appropriate location to develop typically dramatically the beauty of the place to begin with. Unfortunately, this was one area that I had the least amount of time spent, because unlike the other countries in the C-4 Agreement–Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua that could careless about abiding by the 90-day tourist visa for visiting any of these countries–El Salvador actually does follow this agreement strictly and after an hour stuck at customs I was harshly told that I had less than a week to exit the country as well as pass through both Honduras and Nicaragua to be clear of the other countries in the C-4. However, this is not true as I obtained 90-day tourist visas for every other country, but I didn’t want to press my luck after this hour-long lecture in Spanglish.  

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SAN JUAN DEL SUR, NICARAGUA – There are so many things to say about this incredible piece of paradise that is situated directly on the Pacific Coastline just 20km north of the Costa Rican border. Since this was a place I called home for close to 10-months, I’ve been fortunate enough to make friends with a variety of great wonderful people–everyone from the local guys at the restaurants, the woman at the Mercado that became so familiar with my morning visits that all it took was walking through the entrance and making eye contact and as I picked out some fresh fruit for our hostel’s free morning breakfast as I was leaving she had my brekkie all wrapped up in a container to take with me, and of course all of the incredible foreigners, the various hostel owners, volunteer staff, and of course the backpackers. 

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ARENAL, COSTA RICA – A great spot to unwind and relax or to experience a wide variety of outdoor activities, whether that’s hiking around and taking in the incredible views of Arenal Volcano, or when seasonal temps allow, enjoying water activities on Lake Arenal. While some backpackers tend to quickly avoid Costa Rica since it is the most expensive country in Central America, there are still plenty of great areas, such as Arenal, to explore while passing through.

Where to stay? Arenal Backpackers Resort, which is located a short work from the city center of La Fortuna, and has an abundance of positive things going for it. From the spectacular views, friendly staff, on-site swimming pool, and the ability to even take advantage of their new deluxe camping area.
  

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BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA – Located on the Caribbean, it is a short 30-45 minute water taxi from the mainland of Almirante and is home to the infamous Aqua Lounge hostel that was described to me as a floating hostel where you could literally wake up and jump out the window and fall into the Sea. While this is partly true, the ability to enter the water via a window, it is actually still attached to Cayo Carenero, the island just across from Bocas town. I had the privilege or unfortunate mistake–depending on whom you ask, since often backpackers don’t like retuning to places they have already spent time, but to look out on the horizon for new adventures–I returned to Bocas on three separate occasions, and all in all spent close to a combined month in this seaside town, mainly because I had a couple of great friends, Coco and Cat, that lived here and had their own apartment and were kind enough to let me crash on the twin mattress in that seemed to be a permanent fixture in their living room. I also stayed or ending up hostel crashing at almost every place in Bocas.

What I suggest doing? Since there is an abundance of beaches and other islands, we have done everything from renting bicycles for the entire day for $2 and riding out to Playa Bluff to organizing water taxis ($2 - $7) to take us to Red Frog or on the opposite side, which was deserted for our group and my personal favorite nearby–Wizard Beach.

Where to eat? My favorite place was the ocean front restaurant, Raw Sushi, which has an incredible ‘happy hour’ sushi rolls from 4pm – 6pm Tuesday thru Thursday, if I remember correctly for only $4. Obviously this was a constant repeat visit, and often we would be out at a beach and realize that we had less than 45-minutes to make it to this delicious oasis and were panicked to arrive before the happy hour time expired.   

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BOQUETE, PANAMA – This quiet mountain town has a refreshing setting, especially if you are traveling from either the hustle and bustle of Panama City (PC) or escaping the dreadful humidity and heat of Bocas del Toro. Named as one of the top places to retire

Where to stay? Mamallena hostel is located directly across from the central plaza park where the local buses arrive from David, since regardless of traveling from PC or Bocas, this is the main transfer hub leading in almost every direction. The owner, Miguel, is an extremely warm and friendly Panamanian that is unbelievably hospitable. There were several nights that he threw an entire family-style BBQ for guests and even invited non-guests to join in on this free meal. This is also a full service hostel as you can gather information about local activities and even schedule transportation bookings if you are seeking a more direct route to areas, but this will be a bit more expensive than utilizing local transportation and transferring buses in David.

What to do? While this was the most strenuous hike I have ever done, and that being said from a Coloradan, the overnight Volcan Baru hike is a must. Not only is this the highest point in all of Panama, if you are fortunate enough to be there (as we were) during a break in the clouds or a clear day, you can actually view both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean practically simultaneously. The downside, in some ways making it exhausting, is this is typically best being done as either as an overnight hike beginning at the base around midnight, which we did, or hiking to just past the midway point and camping overnight at the designated campsite, which I knew a few friends did. You can also rent camping gear if you haven’t brought your own as the mixture of rain, wind, and dropping overnight temps make this a necessary time to check your cold weather gear. My friend Rachel, who is from NY and has hiked over 20 different mountains in a single year, also agreed that this was the most strenuous hike she has done and she even did the overnight camping to break up the hike over two-days. So be prepared.
  

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MY RTW PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
My last full day in Seoul is still a busy one. Similar to most backpackers, we are masters of utilizing the resources around us, and one of those at Mugunghwa House is a proper washing machine. The joys and headaches of packing is the dreadful chore that we all hate. Since there is no dryer onsite I’ve had to calculate the amount of time it will take for some of my thicker materials to hang dry (jeans and fleece jacket), and after laying them out on the rack I’ve asked Leslie if she’d like to do some souvenir shopping with me and grab some lunch as well. Just after 1pm we head towards the Hongdae University area, and since this is the first time I have purchased any souvenirs in all of my traveling, mainly because of being on a strict budget accompanied with shipping costs, the only people on my list that I’m purchasing small items for are my two sisters that are also Korean adoptees and my two nieces because I want them to have something that is part of their heritage and culture. Since I’m not one for sluggishly wandering from shop to shop, I am able to quickly find a few items that I think the girls will both enjoy and find some humor out of, and this even impresses Leslie with how quickly I’m able to find gifts. 

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After a relatively short lunch and great conversation regarding what it feels like to be an adoptee, which we both agree that no one else can relate to unless they are in this same category, it is a great chance for us to bond over this, at times, sensitive topic. I told her how sorry I was for her that she has yet to locate her birth parents and has been told by Eastern that they have exhausted all of their resources and it seems a bit hopeless and frustrating.

We return back to the guesthouse in the late afternoon just as the winds are continuing to pick up and the sun is beginning to drop behind the towering skyscrapers. I have one last load of laundry to wash and begin the task of army-style rolling my clothing and shoving it in my bag. As I’m doing this I message my sister and ask if she would like to have dinner tomorrow evening since I am planning to stay the night at the airport and she lives nearby. Extremely excited by this invitation she agrees and later Crystal comes in and tells me that my mother has called her and has rented a car for my sister and instead of meeting at the airport tomorrow that she will be picking me up and driving me there personally, but first she is planning to take me to a fancy last supper. I am just shocked at the kindness of my Korean family and how hospitable and welcoming they have been. We agree upon a time of 6:30pm tomorrow evening, which allows me to relax from packing up quickly since I was planning to take the subway in the morning to the airport, which is a chore with 40lbs on your back plus an additional 30lbs that I’m carrying like a pregnant woman. I feel a sense of relief knowing that I can sleep in and have plenty of time to get the gifts mailed to my sisters back in the States. Life is full of surprises and I can’t help but be grateful thinking that I now have three beautiful sisters that care for me very much. 


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EYES WIDE OPEN

3/13/2012

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We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open. – Jawaharial Nehru

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Monday, March 12, 2012 (DAY 8)
Standing in an unfinished room of the Hotel Acropolis that is without walls, a roof, or any safety precautions from the three-story drop below, we agree to a full day excursion with Rudy, which is the only way he would depart our presence annoyingly enough. The morning begins with an absent breakfast that is promised the day before, and at 7:30am Rudy already has an irritable van of passengers. Easily enough, we enjoy breakfast burritos on the other side of the river, complete with homemade tortillas made right in front of us from the street cart of a tiny two-person operation. 

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90 minutes later, over the roughest roads we have experienced yet, we pile out of the cargo van and begin walking through the lush dense jungle down a trail with a series of steps that lead to the opening of the jaw-dropping Rio Frio Cave. If a caves had mouths, this one was wide open, enticing its prey to enter as a river flowed from the bottom and various rock formations clung from the ceiling. Once inside, a harsh dogleg to the right allows you to see daylight from the backside of the cave. The middle has a constant source of flowing water with small drop-offs and an uncanny little sandy beach at the elbow of the formation. Skipping carefully across the water to the rocks on the opposite side, we are lead to almost every possible foothold that could be touched within the walls before disappearing through the back and reentering the dense jungle. 

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90 minutes later, over the roughest roads we have experienced yet, we pile out of the cargo van and begin walking through the lush dense jungle down a trail with a series of steps that lead to the opening of the jaw-dropping Rio Frio Cave. If a caves had mouths, this one was wide open, enticing its prey to enter as a river flowed from the bottom and various rock formations clung from the ceiling. Once inside, a harsh dogleg to the right allows you to see daylight from the backside of the cave. The middle has a constant source of flowing water with small drop-offs and an uncanny little sandy beach at the elbow of the formation. Skipping carefully across the water to the rocks on the opposite side, we are lead to almost every possible foothold that could be touched within the walls before disappearing through the back and reentering the dense jungle. 

We are guided through an hour-long hike, the immense humidity begins to rise with the heat of the day where shade is only felt between the larger leaves that cool the jungle floor. Exhausted and slightly dehydrated upon reaching the entrance to the Twin Cave, which is far less impressive at first glance, and then we realize we would be venturing 125 feet below the surface of the earth, in utter darkness. One by one, we begin walking, crawling, and eventually squeezing through crevices between rocks until our sense of direction is discombobulated. At one point we humorously ask if any of us know the way back out if something were to happen. I’m sure this comment came with a small amount of truth, and a small amount of fear. Winding back to a familiar formation, any tension of wandering around in the dark for countless days is brought with a sigh of relief. Emerging back into the daylight, covered in mud, dirt, and massive amounts of bat droppings, it is time to cool off in the Rio Pools.

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Climbing back into the dreaded van for another session of four-wheeling among so-called roads, we eat our packed sandwiches carefully since we have the droppings of possibly disease-filled bats all over our hands. This, however, does not stop Char from eating everything with her hands, including licking her fingers on a dare, which horrifies us and sparks a mixture of shouts and laughter as we bounce down the dusty dirt road. 

The resurgence of ham and cheese sandwiches gives us the energy we need for a nice cool swim among a series of large rocks that poke above the waterline, where a gushing waterfall is the central focus of this swimming hole. After feeling the enormous pressure of gallons upon gallons of water rushing over your body by the second, we are once again told to follow Rudy downstream. Jumping from one rock to another, the waterfall behind us grows smaller and smaller in the distance, and the view in front of us becomes more and more beautiful. Large hills covered in blankets of green foliage with continuous channels of water snaking its way between the various rocks past narrow waterfalls with steep drop-offs, the river continues beyond the point of where we stop in awe of the scenery around us. Rock jumping and swimming our way back upstream, we are on our way to the last stop of the afternoon, Big Rock Falls, certainly the most impressive of the two swimming locations.

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Sadly, we are unable to make it to the coveted Five Sisters Falls due to a private wedding, but this is still an impressive spot. Exchanging my flip-flops for hiking shoes, we begin the steep descent to the canyon floor below. Every step brings us closer to the rocks below and with it the sound of gushing water powerfully pouring into the pools below. Without hesitation, Kelly, Tim, Char, and myself begin quickly hopping from one rock to the other towards this incredible site. Our first jump into the pool is only about 8 feet in height. This leads to a very short swim towards the source of these misty falls. Placing our bare feet on the damp rocks that are constantly covered in water from the airborne condensation of the water, traction is a bit of a challenge, as Kelly slips with both legs in the air and falls directly on his back. Mortified, we come carefully rushing over to his aid, and before we could get to him he is already on his feet. Assuring us that the sound was much worse than the actual impact we are all relieved, and begin our climb to the jumping point above. Tim is the first to make the leap, as onlookers begin to take notice and more attention is drawn to the now three of us standing atop the rock peering down at the waters below. Not wanting to be embarrassed by hesitating out of fear from the height, and telling myself this journey is also about overcoming fears, I jump, falling thirty feet as I am swallowed by the waters below. Surfacing for air, the mist of the water is now all around me, I feel incredible–full of life, and know that this feeling is part of this exciting journey as I swim towards the rocks along the edge. I can’t help but stop and ponder what I would be doing on this Tuesday if I hadn't committed to living out this dream. I took a long deep breath, soaking in the moment and releasing a smile of week two of my new life. I hope that all of the readers that continue to follow my blog will realize that dreams are achievable and reachable once you can overcome the fears that are associated with change. The day was coming to a close, and despite realizing later that the cost should have been better negotiated, the $130 BZD ($65 US) was already paid and instead of pockets lined with more money, we now had memories that can never be taken from us.

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DIRECTION OF DREAMS

3/12/2012

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I have learned this, at least, by my experiments; that if one advances confidently in the directions of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life he has imagined, he will meet with success unexpected in common hours. – Henry David Thoreau

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Sunday, March 11, 2012 (DAY 7)
Awaking with the knowledge of leaving for San Ignacio and a day of new adventures and experiences, I spring to life, where I reluctantly step into the shower. Let me explain, the bathroom at Bellas is far below the standard of even the dingiest motel on Colfax, but as any true backpacker will tell you, these places tend to be gems, and often the hygienic cleanliness is replaced by the people that are drawn to them. The view from the shower however is priceless, immediately your eyes are drawn to the open ocean as enormous palm trees grow on each side, creating a natural picture perfect frame, the rickety old dock with wooden planks that have been warped by the weather over the years stretch fifty feet from the land, and a small shoreline is visible as the water is held back by the white sand. 

Stepping out of a cold shower that has now become the norm–many I can guarantee will be the pleasure of making the acquaintance of my skin over the months to come–I reenter the room in an encircled form of chaos as both Tim and Char take part in the fine art of seeking out every inch of space in their packs. It’s just after 10am and we begin our rounds of goodbyes to the new friends we are leaving behind before we step out into the hot Caribbean sun and make our way to the dock. Just after making the turn towards the shoreline off of Front Street I look up to see that the water taxis has just arrived, and, for the first time begin walking with a pace that has a motive. The rest of our group begins to follow suit since it will be more than an hour before the next boat to Belize City returns. We quickly take the remaining seats scattered throughout the crowd and despite the noise of the powerful engines, it is a silent ride back allowing me to reminisce over the past six days on the island. 

Once everyone has retrieved their backpacks we stand for a few moments debating the walk in the hot sun through crowded city streets for the main bus terminal as taxi drivers try to convince us otherwise. Ignoring them for the first few moments as prices and distance are inserted in to our semi-private conversation, we eventually decide that the less than $2 BZD ($1) per person is worth the ten-minute ride. The only indication that this is a bus terminal is the few buses you can barely see beyond the chain link fence in the back. If I had not known any better I would have guessed this was a condemned building full of squatters, my American ignorance shows itself, reminding me yet again that I am in Central America and the island life that caters to tourists is now behind me. We are traveling with, and as the locals do on overcrowded chicken buses. The first thing each of us does is scan the disfigured hot room for a booth that has an open window to purchase our bus tickets. Using our reasons of deduction, we assume that it must be beyond the door at the end of the room where we can see throngs of people standing on a mixture of a concrete slab and dirt with the traditional sheet metal overhead acting as a roof. 

There appears to be no one selling tickets and soon remember back to the information of our guidebooks, just jump aboard and as the bus begins heading in the direction you pray is correct, someone will move down the aisle collecting cash. In the crowd, I turn and ask the elderly gentleman standing next to me which bus will be departing to San Ignacio even though there is no bus to point out. He tells me Gate 1. I thank him and relay this information on to our group. Within ten minutes two buses arrive and all semblance of order is thrown to the wind–people begin scrambling for seats. The best illustration I can provide, however sexist you may take it, is the scene of the huge annual bridal gown sale in New York City, where you see women acting like animals pushing and shoving with zero regard for the person next to them. Yes, that is what this is like among all of the passengers–young, old, women, children, and yes, even myself and the members of our group, as we fight our way towards the front of the bus. Amid the insanity, I hear Tim yell out to run to the back and as I do I see the large yellow door being flung open. I cannot express how much adrenaline pumps through you as you try and climb through the back of school bus with a 40 lb backpack strapped to you as people are pushing you from behind. Thankfully I was not alone in this first experience as Tim is there to extend his hand and pull me up just before I feel the weight of gravity working against me, picturing myself as a turtle ready to land on my back. Whew, I take the second to the last seat opposite side of the driver and place my pack on the seat next to me.

Completely winded by the frantic chaos, I look over at Eva and David who are sitting several seats up, Tim just a few seats behind them, and Char who is directly across from me, one by one we make eye contact and as we do large smiles telepathically congratulate one another as we all breathe a large sigh of relief. Scanning the bus, I quickly notice three other people from our hostel, two guys and a girl from Britain, they left one of their packs in the aisle thinking it would be safe since they have the last seat, but soon realize every piece of space is a precious commodity and so I offer to place their bag alongside my pack next to me. They welcome this offer and just as I pick it up another item quickly finds the same floor space. Before long the rumbling old engine of the bus starts up and we are winding through the narrow streets of Belize City.

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Just over four hours later and the bus stops at a dirt lot where the driver informs us we are in San Ignacio. Contemplating staying aboard and bypassing this small hillside town for Benque Viejo, the end of the line, and making the trek to Guatemala in a single day, I am overruled as Tim declares his ass is numb and absolutely has to get off this bus. Laughing, we all grab our packs and make our way to the nearest exit. Before we can even gather our bearings a local man by the name of Mercedes, but has us call him Rudy, is declaring that he has the best deals for lodging and anything else we need in his, so-called town. The five of us know this routine well from previous travels and just ask for directions to the Bellas of the Cayo District, with his course hand he stretches out a finger in the direction at the same time declaring that we can pay the same $20 BZD ($10 USD) for a private hotel room with a private bath and hot showers as we would for a dorm with a shared bathroom. We tell him that we will go and look at this place and then the other and make a decision as a group before committing. Ten minutes later we find ourselves at the Hotel Acropolis. The cobblestone streets that lead up the hill to the hotel bring me back to Europe almost immediately, the entrance to the newly renovated accommodations is three-flights of stairs on the outside of the building and sits on a hill directly across from the Sacred Heart Catholic Church and School. While we sit in the lobby waiting to view the rooms we gain another backpacker from Canada, Kelly, who was on our bus from Belize City but had been overlooked in the mixture of the crowds in attendance. From the beginning, Kelly’s carefree attitude and sarcastic sense of humor meshes well with the current personalities and is welcomed in without hesitation. 

I find myself sharing a room with Tim and Char on what has to be known as one of the squeakiest beds I have ever heard or felt. I think if a mouse farted on it the springs would begin bouncing around. This was almost the same issue regarding the beds in Caye Caulker, except I actually feared for my life in the rickety old wooden bunk beds we slept on. Char was above me and every time she would turn over in her sleep or sit up in bed it sounded like there was ten people in a mosh pit. The moveable wooden slates brought zero comfort to any assurance of survival if even one moved ever so slightly. Sevens days of travel thus far and I know the sleeping arrangements will be stories within themselves through this great journey. 

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Once we were all settled in our respective rooms, food became a necessity, and of course, Rudy is there to lead us around as he bombards us with the various excursions he offers through a tireless onslaught of self-promotion. After our mid-afternoon meal, we are escorted around the quiet town, making our way down to the river that separates Santa Elena from San Ignacio. Arriving on a Sunday afternoon, the bus seemed to drive more slowly across the single-lane wooden bridge. Peering out the window families line the riverbanks on both sides as children splash around in the cool waters, and several hours later when we return to this scene there is no difference in the crowd. The sun begins to disappear over the trees in the distance and with it putting to rest another day on the road.

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    About the Author

    My name is Troy and I gave up a promising 12-year career to travel the world! Now after more than 4-years of continuous global travel, I've lived an incredible life and my goal is to inspire others to achieve their dreams!

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